Everything is in French here. I don’t know even one French word. I feel like a barbarian. Or maybe they make me feel like one when they act oh-so-surprised when I reveal my “no French” weakness. Considering that I’m going to Japan with ever bigger weakness (“no Japanese, no sushi, please give me a fork”), it’s a good exercise. Especially as people tend to get nicer when you smile at them. So, smile mode: on.